VR6 turbo

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gintaras
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VR6 turbo

Post by gintaras » Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:25 pm

________________________Day 1__________________________________well, I started at 4 CST today, didn't quite get half way by 9:30 CSTFirst thing's first.. How healthy is my engine?I did a compression test of the cylinders from pass side to driver side.I think the compression gauge was reading high, but even so, there are no significant differences between them. Here are the measured max compression across the cylinders starting on the pass side and ending at the driver side. Looks healthy to me!1 220 psi2 215 psi3 220 psi4 220 psi5 210 psi6 225 psiI chose to do the oil pan next.Drained the oil.Drained the filer and replaced the filter.removed the 26 bolts holding the pan to the block, and the 3 bolts holding the pan to the trans case.We've all seen an oil pan before.. 26 bolts, wow...Sorry for the blurry pics of the crankHere you can see the flywheel.After that, I drilled the holes for the oil return line and mounted it, spread a layer of silicone sealant on the pan and reinstalled. Sorry, no pics of the return line............................................................Oil pan in place, next was to tackle the intake, which requires a lot of preliminary parts removal.First was to drain the coolant and power steering, this is important to move the radiator core support (front clip) into the service position.Draining the fluidsYou also remove the lower and upper radiator hoses, the coolant hoses that run along the bottom of the radiator support, and the power steering hoses.Before moving the front clip forward, I had to remove the fan and temp sensor plugs. I also removed the vacuum attachments to the manifold and the throttle body.Vacuum on the back of the intake............................................................Throttle body.First remove this coolant hose.Then remove the bolts, pull off, and remove the remaining coolant hose.Next was to remove the bolts on the intake manifold itself. There are 1 on each side, 1 on the back, and 9 on the front. Now is the time to pull the front clip into the service position. It can move around quite a bit, and makes it really easy to get to everything. The only reason you cannot pull it off completely, is that you cannot disconnect the refrigerant lines.The nine bolts are a bit trick, a few of them I had to feel for. But this one, oh this one is really a PIA, and I wasn't able to remove it, I think I need a ball-end allen wrench, I'll get one of those tomorrow.PIA bolt that I couldn't remove!After that there wasn't much for me to until I get that bolt out, I really hope a ball-end allen will do the trick, because otherwise I will need to remove the accessory bracket, and that looks to be yet another PIA.Next time I hope to have some better pics, pics of the head removed and the timing procedure. I have a cheap tiawan battery, so I am not taking ALL the pics, just the ones that have some importance. ________________________Day 2__________________________________Even after 5 beers (Labatt Blue) for a job well done last night, I was up at 6:30 AM, made some bacon and eggs, and sat around drinking coffee while waiting for Harbor Freight to open up. 9:00 o'clock, I walk into Harbor Freight, and picked up a set of ball-end hex wrenches for $9.99.Got back home and started working again at 9:30, got the front clip out of the way again, and manged to remove the last intake bolt with this tool I made up. A 6 mm ball-end hex and a 6mm open end wrench, voila!After uncliping something and removing the dipstick, the manifold came right out, no problem.The "gunk" that you see around the intake ports was coming from the previous supercharger system... I don't think my crankcase breather burner was working, and I didn't have a catch can.I disconnected all of these vacuum and coolant lines, and then removed that whole metal piping assembly as a whole.Next was the fuel lines, just push the clip in and they pop right off.Easy access to the exhaust manifold now...Next step was to detach the downpipe from the cat converter. And the 2 top bolts were extremely difficult to get to. Patience is key here, as you can turn them about 1/10 of a turn with a wrench before you can get a 1/4 inch ratchet in there, and then still, you can only turn about 1/8 turn each time. After the top bolts were completely off, I broke all 4 lower bolts, I hope it isn't too difficult to remove these from the cat, maybe I need a stright pipe in it's place now ;) OK, after that's done, go inside and unbolt the steering shaft so that you can drop the subframe later on to make room to remove the downpipe.Next step is to remove the 14 bolts that attach the exhaust manifold to the head, these are surprisingly easy to get to (now that everything else is out of the way), and they were not seized at all, very easy to remove.Then remove the lower dogbone mount and the bolts for the subframe. supporting the subframe with a jack, lower it as far as it can go and the up just a bit to take the tension off.I few weeks ago I had a diff installed and there was trouble the trans came out 3 times as they were trying to troubleshoot the issue, and I just discovered a stripped mounting hole for the dogbone... Nice. they didn't even bother to tell me about it.. if anyone has any idea how I can fix this please IM me and/or post here, the hole in the bottom of the gearbox is stripped out.Stripped holeThe remains of the stripped hole on the threads of the bolt and on the ground After the subframe is lowered and the O2 sensors are removed, pull the downpipes and manifolds up and out, I had to reach down with my hands and move the subframe enough so I can clear it with the downpipes. It is WIDE open now, plenty room for a turbo =) Close up of the exhaust portsShot of the transfer case, flex plate, driveshaft, and rear output shaftWell.. I just came in to eat lunch and charge my camera battery.. it's time to go out and tackle the head now.________________________Day 2___PART Deax_________________________OK, after lunch I went back out to reach my goal of getting the head spacer installed.First thing to do was rotate the number 1 cylinder into TDC, do this by rotating the crank pulley and lining up the marks (I hope that was the right mark, because it was very small, just a little tiny spec. The cams were lined up correctly, so yeah, it was the right mark.All electrical connections, coilpack harness, brackets, and fuel injectors removed and/or moved so cover can be removed.Head cover removed.chain cover with everything removed, ready to remove cover..Cover removed. At this point, I was really starting to feel a bit intimidated.. but after I removed the head, I felt comfortable with it again.After the cover was removed, it was time to remove the timing chain roller. To do this, hold with a 32mm wrench, and crack it loose with an 18mm. These were TIGHT!! I had to brace myself, one foot in front of the other, and really lay into it, pulling with my right arm, pushing with my left.RemovedRemove the chain guide.After that stuff is out if the way, remove the head bolts in sequence from inside to out. I had a friend help me lift it off and guide the chain past the sensors that I did not want to remove..head on the benchAll cleaned up and ready to install1 of 2 gaskets and the spacer installedAll torqued and back together.. calling this a big job, is an understatement...Thanks Kenny! (cabracco85) for helping lift the head and reading me those torque sequences!________________________Day 3__________________________________After 2 days to wait for the parts to arrive, I went and picked them all up..Box of parts.. lets go!First I put in the new chain guide. The replacement chain guide has material removed because the head now sits higher due to the spacer, which would make the chain tighter, and would throw the timing off if it weren't shaved.After installing the chain guide, I put on the intake cam roller, and then the exhaust cam roller. The timing procedure was really easy, I didn't even have to do any adjustment at all. Sorry, it was really tough to take a pic of the marks because the flash was reflected in the cam rollers.. and I didn't have enough of a steady hand to take the pic without the flash. But here it goes..After reading the procedure in the bentley manual, and talking the Darren at HPA, i was prepared with surgical precision.. after I installed the chain guide, I put the flat bar on the head and into the cam slots. I then took the intake roller and tried to turn it all the way to stop, but it was already there, so out of curiosity, I turned it the other way and oil gushed out.. I put it back to stop again by turning it clockwise, which was exactly where it was to begin with. I lined up the alignment hole on the end of the cam, put in the bolt and pulled the chain tight across it. I then checked the exhaust cam chain roller and it was already at the stop, so no adjustment necessary there. I lined it up with the cam alignment pin, and pulled the chain over it, luckily got the chain in the correct tooth the first try. Once both were on, I counted the rollers just to be sure, 16, right on. With the cam bolts hand tight, and the cam tool removed, I got a helper to hold the chain tensioner tight against the chain while I gave the crank 2 revolutions to the timing mark. Check the alignment arrows and timing marks for the cams... DEAD on.. that was easy, so just to double check, 2 more revolutions, still dead on.Bad pic, it doesn't look like the marks are aligned in the pic, but they are.. the chain rollers have a larger diameter than where the timing marks are on the head, so unless you look straight down on them, the will be a little off.Here is the cover, I replaced the rubber gasket, clean up the silicone, and put a thin layer of silicone after this shot was taken.These bolts are supposed to be torqued to 16 ft/lbs, but you really can't get a torque wrench in there, and I just torqued the other bolts to 10 ft/lbs, so I just guestimated it. They are good and tight though.Another rubber gasket to replace in the thermostat housing.This is a line for the turbo oil supply, it says to torque this to 30NM, but I won't know the best orientation until I attach it to the turbo, so it will have to wait. It also doesn't mention to use a copper washer, which worries me a bit, but the pic shows with only one on the bolt side.Replacing the 6 rubber gaskets and the cover gasket.Head cover reinstalled and then I came in for lunch.I should have the turbo, downpipe, injectors all done by this evening, maybe more.. It's back to the garage for me.. and all this time, it has not been above 30 degrees F.. it's a little cold, but once you get moving you don't even notice.________________________Day 3__After Lunch_____________________At this point I was ready to tackle the rewiring of the fuel injector harness, replace the fuel injectors and the FPR.I stared by removing the 4 6mm bolts under the fuel rail, and prying up on it until the injectors came loose, there were tight.Some of them stayed in the head, because I removed the retaining clips before pulling up on the fuel rail.While working in that area, I was able to see what the block-gasket-spacer-gasket-head sandwich looked like..Now was time to get the new injectors in place. I used some motor oil on the O-rings and put them temporarily in place while I was fabbing the harness.I basically started at then end and worked my way in, cutting about an equal length of OEM wiring to new wiring. After stripping, fluxing, and soldering each section, I had this.I plugged it all in and ran the new harness assembly through the harness retainer.OK, now we are getting somewhere, here's everything starting to go back together.. the knock sensors, cam position sensors, the thermostat housing, etc...Subframe still loose, dropped the downpipe in place.New exhaust manifold.In place with the spacers attached.Turbo just in place, not bolted in, I think I am missing a gasket between the manifold and turbo, I triple checked all the boxes, and there was none, time to call HPA and see if it is mossing.That's it for tonight.. ECU should be here tomorrow and I'll also inquire about the gasket. I also need to replace the studs in my cat converter, the dealership doesn't sell them separately. And I still need to hammer them out. I think that will be the last step in all of this. cont... Modified by gintaras at 6:39 PM 3/11/2007

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Trevor57
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Re: VR6 turbo (gintaras)

Post by Trevor57 » Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:41 pm

I can't help you, but damn!

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Grip Driver
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Re: VR6 turbo (Trevor57)

Post by Grip Driver » Thu Mar 08, 2007 5:43 am

big props to doing this yourself
Cheers,
Conrad
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Re: VR6 turbo (gintaras)

Post by KO-R32 » Thu Mar 08, 2007 5:52 am

Damn yo!
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~Karl

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gintaras
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Re: VR6 turbo (KO-R32)

Post by gintaras » Thu Mar 08, 2007 6:38 am

Thanks all I really get a thrill of taking a challenge like this and seeing the end result. And besides, I had some bad experiences and don't trust anyone but myself to do the work.. You know what they say.. if you want it done right, do it yourself

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Re: VR6 turbo (gintaras)

Post by KO-R32 » Thu Mar 08, 2007 8:07 am

gintaras wrote:You know what they say.. if you want it done right, do it yourself
I do agree! The trick when doing it yourself it getting it right the first time. But for what you learn its worth it. Now I know who I'm calling if I ever FI the .:R. Can I have a ride this summer ~
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Re: VR6 turbo (KO-R32)

Post by Autox 2 » Thu Mar 08, 2007 8:38 am

After the install change your lisc. plate to say "BYEBYE".

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Re: VR6 turbo (toneesvr6)

Post by gintaras » Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:40 pm

________________________Day 4_____________________Today I thought I would have it done, I mean, what's a little mounting the silicon hoses, reattaching the subframe, buttoning it up... right?OK, a little more to it than that, but I was ready to get this done, so I took a little less pics, and just worked, worked, worked..With the turbo bolted in place, I was able to attach the oil feed to both the head and the turbo. I wanted to wait until I got to this point before I tightened the chain tensioner bolt, because I didn't know which way it would be oriented. The part not pictured is the chain tensioner/spacer for the oil supply, the one pictured is the oil inlet on the turbo. I counter held the stem, and tightened the banjo bolt to 15 ft/lbs.I attached the coolant lines, which threw me off a bit because one of the supplied lines do not match the illustration. I was told that this was supposed to have been updated, they changed the lines after printing, to get the hose a little further from the turbo.You can see the steel coolant lines that curl in front, and behind the turbo inlet. Placement is not super critical, because after the bolts are tightened, you can bend them a little bit. A torque wrench didn't fit here, so I gaged the 15 ft/lbs by the feel of the oil bolt, basically, snugged, and then just a little more to lock it in.The ECU came that day, thanks to HPA's super fast service! They had the ECU by 4 CST, and it was back out the door within a few hours, and to my doorstep less than 24 hours later! Speaking of shipping, my 3 bar FPR was bent. I don't know if I did that trying to put it in, or if it was already like that, but regardless, when I called Jared about it, I had another one the very next day, in the same box.. I mean, just thinking about it, within 24 hours, probably closer to 18, the ECU and FPR were out the door of HPA, and through my door in Indiana.. nice!ECU inPollen filter needed changing.I drilled the intake mounting bracket off of the OEM heat shield.And reattached the bracket to the back of the head.After talking to Darren about the coolant lines mentioned above, I didn't let him off the phone until I was sure about the connections. It was a little vague in the illustrations, but here is how it is all routed. That long, stainless pipe goes all the way back to the reservoir.Another good shot to illustrate the components. Notice to the left of the passenger side O2 sensor, there is a steel pipe (with the label still on it), this goes the the bottom of the reservoir, and the other end goes to the heater core inlet on the firewall.This one is not used, but the T is used later for the evap system.Time to reroute the O2 sensors. On the underside, separate these 2 looms from each other after removing the clips.Then tape up the front loom, and feed it up the firewall near the AC line, send the cat harness back to it's original location.This is where they now live, I still need to zip tie them at this point.Installed.. which reminds me, it is a bit of a trick to tighten these once the heat shield is in place, because you can only lift it just a little, and I didn't have a special O2 sensor wrench or socket. I am also a little concerned about the wires being in such close proximity of the heat.I cut the brass nipples out of the throttle body, I tried removing them, but they weren't going anywhere.. and at this point I was past the point of no return anyway...Then cut off the nipple on the intake mani, closest to the TB, and installed the supplied screw.. which I then removed and reinstalled again so I could attach the manifold heat shield.Changed the intake gasket.And installed the heat shield.Ready for the intake manifold now, notice the heat wrap for the brake booster that was shipped to all of us a couple of days ago.Before installing the manifold, I had to remove the bracket and grind it down... just like the instructions say to do.. I guess I missed that part. =)OK, NOW the manifold can go back on.Also, I had to get on the phone again with Darren, to ask him about the evap lines, because the illustrations do not match the procedure. The illustration shows a check valve, but that is not in the kit, nor is it needed any longer. With the evap lines and vacuum lines in place ( I T-ed off of the manifold-to-diverter valve line, which also T's into something else.. for my boost gage)At this point, I was getting very tired, started losing things, dropping things, and even stepped in a tub full of coolant and PS fluid.. but I was determined to at least start it.. So after the manifold was on, about the only thing left to get it running was the silicone hoses.. I'm sure my tiredness had a lot to do with why they were such a PIA to install, and perhaps if I had waited 'till morning, they would have been easier, but to me, they were a huge pain. Just when I thought I had the intake done, I had to remove it to do the output, or vice/versa, I forgot. Basically, it is real tight back there, and you need to tighten not only the output from the turbo, the input to the manifold, the intake to the turbo, but also the breather hose too. I think my arms are still sore from fighting with this stuff.After all that, I reattached the subframe, steering shaft, filled it with oil and coolant, started it up... and it stalled.. but only because the fuel rail was bone dry.. a couple more key primes of the fuel pump, it started right up! It is actually running in this pic!And that's a night.. ran it up to operating temp this way, had 20 lbs of vac, coolant full, oil level good.. I'm off to bed!________________________Day 5_____________________Saturday morning, it would be obvious that I was excited to get up and get moving on this.. here's what I accomplished.-Front clip all back together-heli-coil in the motor mount-Clean the garage-Top off coolant that filled in the voids overnight-dropped the exhaust so I could tighten one last bolt on the cat-swapped in the magnaflow exhaust-raised the suspension about 3/4 inch all around-removed the snows and put on the aristos-alignment! (the steering wheel was about 45 degrees off after reattaching the subframe)-picked up a new KnN filter, modified airbox and went for a ride! Oh, and about that, you definitely know there is a turbo in this car with the airbox modified.. I don't know how many of you came from a 1.8T, but if you did, then you know what a modified airbox/DV or a CAI/DV combo sounds like.. well this is a lot louder than that, but it is not obnoxious.. you can also hear the whistle of the MAF sensor, which is kind of like those deer whistles that people put on their cars.-Check Engine light! Whew, I just forgot about that pesky little knock sensor connection on the passenger side, it's one that you don't notice because it's buried down there, but with the use of my new VAD tool and palm, I had it figured out pretty quick.. but it was HOT down there! -Car washAMAZING RIDE! Wow!! Now THIS is what i was looking for! amazing low-end power, right off the line, the power is there right when you want it, right when you need it! I am really, extremely happy about how this car feels now, it is like I bought a new car, seriously, i know everybody says that after something like this, but it's no joke, this car pulls like a train now! 1st gear, pretty useless, but 2nd gear is a blast when you get on the throttle and look back to see the closest car is 1/4 mile behind you already HUGE THANKS to Jared and Darren at HPA, completely top-notch customer service, there were very few times in which I called, that someone didn't answer, and I think every time I called for Darren, (x 109 ) He answered every time. Now THAT is good customer service.. Thanks to HPA for putting together a remarkable kit, I mean everything is just completely top notch, and I could only imaging the enormous amount of R&D that went into creating such a kit, it's the little things that really make a difference, things like the silicon intake tube that fits the MAF perfectly (no stretching), or the coolant pipes that are a perfect length, etc.. this is the definition of quality, just perfect!This was a tremendous amount of work.. would I do it again? Sure, but only if I had a better garage, more time, and another car. Something like this takes time, and if you have the time, then go for it, but if you can't live without your car for a week, don't do it.. you need a good, solid week to do this and do it right. I don't know what a shop charges for this, but I would estimate 24 hours, and 24 hours at 75-80 an hour, is more that I personally would want to pay, but i like doing this stuff.. Modified by gintaras at 5:07 AM 3/12/2007

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Post by Trevor57 » Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:49 pm

This is cool. I just hope you get to enjoy it for a long time.

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Re: (Trevor57)

Post by gintaras » Mon Mar 12, 2007 5:52 am

Trevor57 wrote:This is cool. I just hope you get to enjoy it for a long time.
I won't get tired of it at all.. the plans are to keep this car for a long, long time, maybe I'll even be buried in it The next progression will to add an intercooler, then that's it for a very long time..

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Re: (gintaras)

Post by Autox 2 » Mon Mar 12, 2007 12:37 pm

If you're interested in a turbo timer my friend is giving me one from his subi wrx.

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Re: VR6 turbo (gintaras)

Post by VRUM VR6 » Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:46 pm

Man Gintaras... that is AWESOME!!!Last spring I did my own timing belt and water pump. In November, I did the cam chain tensioner too. It's amazing how gratifying it is to do your own work.Though, I have to hand it to you... You are the MAN!!!

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Re: (gintaras)

Post by vwmann1 » Thu Mar 15, 2007 4:43 pm

GintarasNice work so far! You will like this kit. Really brings this car to life. Give me a call I can help you with the stripped dog bone mount.

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Re: VR6 turbo (VRUM VR6)

Post by Autox 2 » Thu Mar 15, 2007 6:50 pm

There should be an award every year for things like this.The Golden Wrench Award.We have one on the scirocco.org gtg, but it's the broken piston/hammer award and it's usually for the opposite.

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Re: VR6 turbo (toneesvr6)

Post by Qball » Fri Mar 16, 2007 5:34 am

toneesvr6 wrote:There should be an award every year for things like this.The Golden Wrench Award.We have one on the scirocco.org gtg, but it's the broken piston/hammer award and it's usually for the opposite.
ohhh I could win that!!

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Re: VR6 turbo (gintaras)

Post by b5in » Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:23 am

That is siiiick You are one crazy MoFo , I would have given up at the 26 bolts for the oil pan

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Re: VR6 turbo

Post by bolidas » Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:24 pm

neblogai darbuojies

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Re: VR6 turbo

Post by Randum » Tue Oct 25, 2011 3:10 pm

This is a great post! Nice work! I would love to attempt something like this one day - very, very cool! Congrats and hope to see you around town
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Re: VR6 turbo

Post by g60_corrado_91 » Wed Nov 02, 2011 6:05 pm

Epic bump.
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Re: VR6 turbo

Post by valladar » Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:33 am

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